ImageA look from Pauline Dujancourt’s spring 2025 collection.Credit...Courtesy of Pauline DujancourtImageAnother look from Dujancourt’s spring 2025 collection.Credit...Courtesy of Pauline DujancourtPauline Dujancourt

The French-born, London-based designer Pauline Dujancourt learned to knit as a childjollibet, from her grandmother, but she didn’t fully immerse herself in the craft until a few years ago, when she lost her design job during the pandemic. “I would read complicated Japanese knitting books and watch YouTube videos of Turkish women crocheting,” she says. “I needed a challenge and found it captivating.” Dujancourt went on to earn her master’s in knitwear design from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2022 and launched her namesake label that same year with a collection of ethereal garments handmade by an all-female collective in Peru. Metallic yarn lends an iridescent quality to the dresses, which follow the curves of the female body and combine delicate crochet panels with strips of mesh. “I thought knitting was a bit dated, so I wanted to make it look contemporary and give it volume,” Dujancourt says. Since being nominated as one of eight finalists for the LVMH Prize this year, she has garnered stockists including Dover Street Market and Mouki Mou in Athens; she’ll present her spring 2025 collection during London Fashion Week.

ImageA preview of Campillo’s volcano-inspired spring 2025 collection.Credit...Courtesy of CampilloImageA look from the line’s fall 2024 collection.Credit...Dorian Ulises López Macías/Courtesy of CampilloCampillo

Born and based in Mexico City, Patricio Campillo grew up immersed in the culture of charrería, traditional Mexican rodeo. When he was a young man, his father passed down a charro suit — the heavily embellished costume worn by Mexican horsemen — that had belonged to his own father and, for Campillo, the outfit “became a blueprint,” he says. “It made me realize I wanted to take the craftsmanship and artistry I admired from this universe and reinterpret them in a contemporary context.” And so, in 2017, the self-taught designer, who previously worked on the public relations side of fashion, founded his own men’s wear label, the Pack, which he rebranded to share his surname earlier this year. Campillo uses an oxidizing technique to add patina to fabrics like denim, leather and silk and to enhance the rich, saturated earth tones of his trench coats, vests and other tailored pieces. His take on the charro suit features hand-carved bone buttons and metallic hardware made by local artisans. This year, Campillo became the first Mexican designer ever to reach the semifinals of the LVMH Prize; now, he’ll follow that success with a New York Fashion Week debut. Of his inspiration for the new collection, he says: “Lately I’ve been fascinated with Mexican volcanoes.”

ImageA look from Yaku’s spring 2025 collection.Credit...Oscar FinnieImageAnother look from the brand’s spring 2025 collection.Credit...Oscar FinnieYaku

For the London-based designer Yaku Stapleton, Afrofuturism — the art and literary movement that combines sci-fi themes with Black history and culture — represents complete freedom. “It gives the individual the opportunity to redefine their identity and create this limitless world,” he says of the genre, which inspired his 2023 Central Saint Martins graduate show. In dreaming up that collection, he reimagined his family members as characters in a video game, creating a fantastical wardrobe of oversize cargo pants, zip-up sweatshirts with knitted hoods and giant pink puffer jackets with extra sleeves filled with recycled bedding. Stapleton won L’Oréal’s Professionnel Creative Award that year, earning a place on the racks at SSENSE, London’s Machine-A and Dover Street Market among other retailers. Ahead of his forthcoming presentation at London Fashion Week, he’s been experimenting with 3-D scanning and working with deadstock fabrics. Home, however, remains a creative wellspring. “Everything I do with the brand starts with my family,” he says.

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